Last updated: 12th November, 2024
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At iHeat we’re experts in anything relating to keeping your home heated and comfortable, this includes radiator function and problem troubleshooting.
In this blog we’re going to be exploring the act of balancing the radiators within a property, a solution to a problem that if not addressed can seriously impact your home in terms of heat wastage.
If radiators in different locations within your property are heating up at different rates, the water flowing into them from your boiler is not being dispersed evenly and the likelihood is they’ll need to be balanced.
Unbalanced radiators aside from being incredibly stress inducing, are extremely inefficient in terms of energy loss and subsequent expenditure.
However, if your radiators have cold spots and make noises when the heating is turned on, they’ll need to be ‘bled’, before being balanced.
Bleeding a radiator is the act of releasing trapped air to ensure water is not being displaced and causing the top of the radiator to become cooler, causing their performance to degrade.
It’s wise to bleed a radiator before attempting to balance them as this will provide a more accurate heat reading.
We have a video available here for more information on bleeding your radiators.
First of all to carry out the initial bleeding and balancing of your radiators you’ll need the following tools:
Bleed key
Screwdriver
Lockshield valve key or adjustable spanner
Digital thermometer or multimeter with thermometer
Firstly switch off your central heating and allow radiators to cool, as mentioned it’s prudent to have already bled and if need be have carried out a system power flush.
You must fully open the thermostatic valves by turning the valve head to the highest number on the dial, this is usually anti-clockwise (to the left).
If your radiators do not have thermostatic valves, alternatively you can make sure the lockshields are open by removing the cover cap and turning the valve anti clockwise with a valve key or spanner.
After all of the radiator valves are open, switch the heating back on and monitor the order the radiators heat up in.
Once you’ve made notes on the heating rates, switch the heating fully off and allow radiators to cool back down, before switching the heating back on…we know, but keep soldiering on.
Turn the lockshield valve on the fastest radiator until it’s completely closed and then open it by a quarter turn.
Firstly, once the fastest radiator has heated up, take an accurate temperature reading (right at the point of connection between the pipework and lockshield valve). Then take the temperature of the pipework on the opposite side, where the TRV is found and make a note of both measurements.
Turn the lockshield valve slowly until the difference between the two readings is exactly 12°C
Repeat step 6 on other radiators around the property in order to effectively balance them; often the further the radiator is away from the boiler, the more its lockshield valve will need to be opened to provide equal water reception, for example the slowest radiator to heat up may require its lockshield valve being fully opened.
If you have thoroughly carried out all the steps in the process as listed above, yet are still having issues, equal water dispersion disparities may be down to other problems.
One prevalent component issue that can lead to radiator imbalance is a faulty pump that isn’t efficiently thrusting water around your central heating system.
Another type of underlying cause of radiators not being balanced is a build up of ‘sludge’ within the system; tell tale signs of sludge presence is thick, dark water escaping from radiators when they’re bled, or cold spots at the bottom of the radiator.
To remedy this issue a system cleanse may need to be carried out via a power flush if one has not been carried out prior to carrying out steps 1-7.
It can be beneficial to have your boiler serviced by a Gas Safe registered engineer every 12 months or if you notice a decrease in its performance.
The Gas Safe Register is the appointed representative of the safety regulatory group- Health and Safety Executive.
All registered gas safe engineers should carry and be able to present official accreditation and have a verified and unique ID number.
All of our iHeat engineers are registered Gas Safe!
If your old, inefficient boiler is succumbing to natural wear and tear, it could be the time to replace it with a sleek, efficient modern boiler from our expansive collection here at iHeat.
The cost of a heat pump can vary significantly depending on the type (air source or ground source), brand, and installation requirements. On average, an air source heat pump typically costs between £7,000 to £13,000, while a ground source heat pump can range from £13,000 to £35,000. However, these prices can be reduced with grants like the Boiler Upgrade Scheme, which offers up to £5,000 for air source and £6,000 for ground source heat pumps.
The average cost of an air source heat pump in the UK is around £10,000, including installation. Ground source heat pumps tend to be pricier, with average installation costs of around £20,000. Incentives such as the Boiler Upgrade Scheme can help offset these costs, making heat pumps more affordable for homeowners.
The primary disadvantage of a heat pump system is its higher upfront cost compared to traditional boilers. Additionally, heat pumps may not perform as effectively in poorly insulated homes, requiring additional insulation work, which can increase the overall cost. In colder climates, they may also be less efficient and require supplemental heating during extremely low temperatures.
Yes, heat pumps can be worth the investment in the UK, especially for homes with good insulation. They are highly energy-efficient and produce lower carbon emissions than gas boilers, which aligns with the UK’s climate goals. While the initial investment is high, heat pumps can offer significant long-term savings on energy bills and may increase the property’s value.
Homes with poor insulation, limited outdoor space, or high heating demands might not be ideal for heat pumps. Older properties with traditional central heating systems may require substantial retrofitting, which can be costly. Additionally, listed buildings or those in conservation areas might face restrictions that make heat pump installation challenging.
Higher electricity bills can result if the heat pump is working harder to maintain the set temperature, often due to insufficient insulation or incorrect thermostat settings. Heat pumps also consume electricity to operate, and if they’re running frequently or supplementing a large heating demand, the electric bill may be noticeably higher.
The cost to run a heat pump for an hour depends on the type and size of the system and current electricity rates. Generally, running an air source heat pump costs about 10-20p per hour, based on average efficiency and typical UK electricity rates. Ground source heat pumps tend to be even more efficient, potentially reducing the hourly cost slightly.
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